I was thinking about making a comment about the dangers and risks of driving in heavy rain, talking about the driver's vision, extra noise from the wet roads and the rain landing on the roof, less grip and therefore longer stopping distances.

Then I thought: "No, don't do that"

I thought I would send an open comment to all the pedestrians out in the rain (Not that they should be reading social media whilst out on the roads, in the rain).

I thought I would remind them that most drivers are very conscious about road safety, especially in adverse conditions. This just a reminder that whilst we are doing what we can to keep everything safe, other road users also need to think about safety.

Please give us a chance to help keep you safe, by making the effort to look up or around the edge of the hood that you have pulled up, please peer out from underneath the umbrella you might have pulled down as far as possible, please don't turn up the volume of your ipod so much that you drown out (pun intended) the noise of approaching vehicles. Please don't shelter out of sight as well as the rain, and then just "leg it" straight across the roads without looking.

I am sure that lying in the road puddles will get you wetter and colder, and spoil your day more, than just taking a moment to check that it really is safe to venture out onto the roads in this horrible weather. So, don't let yourself get hit by a vehicle.. it will spoil everybody's day. Even the Ambulance Crews and Police don't like driving or attending a casualty in the rain.

Everybody, please take your time, and play your part in keeping the British roads as safe as you can.

1. Road works (288)
288
When the ‘Road Works Ahead’ sign is displayed, you will need to be more watchful and look for additional signs providing more specific instructions. Observe all signs - they are there for your safety and the safety of road workers.

• You MUST NOT exceed any temporary maximum speed limit.
• Use your mirrors and get into the correct lane for your vehicle in good time and as signs direct.
• Do not switch lanes to overtake queuing traffic.
• Take extra care near cyclists and motorcyclists as they are vulnerable to skidding on grit, mud or other debris at road works.
• Where lanes are restricted due to road works, merge in turn (seeRule 134).
• Do not drive through an area marked off by traffic cones.
• Watch out for traffic entering or leaving the works area, but do not be distracted by what is going on there. Concentrate on the road ahead, not the road works.
• Bear in mind that the road ahead may be obstructed by the works or by slow moving or stationary traffic.
• Keep a safe distance - there could be queues in front. To obtain further information about road works, see Conversions and further reading.
• Law RTRA sect 16

6. Reversing (200 to 203)
201
Do not reverse from a side road into a main road. When using a driveway,
reverse in and drive out if you can.

202
Look carefully before you start reversing. You should use all your mirrors check the ‘blind spot’ behind you (the part of the road you cannot see easily in the mirrors)Check there are no pedestrians (particularly children), cyclists, other road users or obstructions in the road behind you.
Reverse slowly while: 

• checking all around
• looking mainly through the rear window
• being aware that the front of your vehicle will swing out as you turn.

Get someone to guide you if you cannot see clearly.

This is a note on how I change a tyre, it is not the way to change a tyre. Different people, and different car manufacturers have differing ways of doing it. Always read the instructions.
If you do not feel confident, then do not attempt it. Get a suitable person to help you. This is another good reason for being a member of a break-down organisation



What does it feel like to have a puncture whilst driving?

You will normally know that you have potentially got a problem with the tyre, because you have probably just hit the kerb, or driven over a glass bottle, or something similar.


You may just find that the steering is not as “sharp” as it was a moment ago, the car may be gently (or not so gently ) be pulling to one side or the other.

You might find that you can hear a “ticking” noise, made by a screw / nail etc making contact with the road surface as you are driving, hitting the tarmac at each rotation of the tyre.

On one occasion we had just rolled to a stop, and parked. We both looked at each other whilst we could “sense” that the car was dipping on the left side, as the air gently escaped.

 Sometimes  it is just obvious that you have got a tyre problem.

Where to stop?

Easy answer… somewhere safe, but soon, before you shred the tyre between the wheel rim and the road.

Do not brake hard to slow the vehicle down, but brake gently, until you are sure you can still control the steering safely whilst braking.

Try to get off the normal driving position on the road, but try to stop where the ground is both level and firm, firm enough to hold the jack steady as you change the tyre.
 
Warning triangle or no triangle?
The Highway Code recommends that you place an appropriate  warning triangle 45m before the car, on the same side of the road. It should be placed before a bend, or before the summit of a hill, to give other road users warning of the hazard ahead. Please keep in mind that the typical stopping
distance of a car travelling at 40mph is 36m, and at 70mph it is 96m. I would ensure that I give the other road users as much warning as I sensibly can. Care should be taken when setting out, or collecting the triangle, as you will be walking away from, and facing away from, the oncoming traffic. Try to keep well off the road as you walk to position or collect the triangle.

Where is the spare tyre? Or is it just a can of sealant?
Different cars keep the “spare” in different places. Some are under the car boot, and need to be released from under the car, or from inside the bottom of the boot. Some cars have the spare resting in a compartment in the bottom of the boot. Either way, you are probably going to have to unload the contents of the boot before getting proper access to the spare. Some cars have a full-sized spare wheel, the same size as the other four. Some have a “Space-Saver” tyre, narrower and lighter than a full-size tyre. But you are still going to have to fit the full-sized tyre somewhere in the car until you can get it fixed and refitted. Some cars just have a can of compressed  “sealant”, that fits onto the tyre valve, and sprays into, and fills up, and temporarily block the tyre and the puncture, as long as it is a small puncture.
If the tyre is ripped I don’t think a spray can is going to fix the  problem.

How to secure the  car
Ideally you will be able to park the car off the road, on a solid and flat surface. I’m sure that if you explained the situation to a house-owner, or farmer, they would be willing to let you borrow part of their driveway for a few minutes.

I always leave the car in first or reverse gear, with the handbrake fully applied. The idea is to make the car as stable as possible, whilst it will be balanced on only three wheels. You definitely DO NOT want the car to roll or move at all when it is resting on the jack. A couple of stones, or bits of old fence post, or branches, could be used to chock the wheels and secure the car so that it cannot be rolled forwards or backwards by mistake. Auto stores normally sell pairs of plastic wheel-chocks that could be stored permanently in the boot.
 
The tools you will need, and getting ready
So, we have the car safely secured and level off the road, we have got the spare tyre out, together with the jack, and spanners, and maybe we need the locking wheel-nut key as well.

Now we need to work out how to use the jack, and where it should be positioned so that it lifts the car without damaging it. Instructions for this will be in the car’s manual, if you still have it. Try to keep the equipment clean, and within easy reach of where you will be changing the tyre.

Removing the tyre
I set up the jack so that is in place, ready to lift the car. I place the spare tyre under the side of the car, within easy reach, so that if the jack collapses when we are removing the damaged tyre, the car will drop onto the spare tyre, not onto the ground. When this happens, hopefully the brake system will not be damaged by hitting the ground. You will also have a bit of space to remove and reset the
jack before trying again. It also means that if your toes were under the car when the jack collapses, then hopefully you won’t damage them, and hopefully you won’t ever put your toes under the car again.

Once the jack is tensioned, I then loosen all the wheel nuts on the damaged wheel. I only loosen them enough to be able to turn them with fingers, not a spanner, I do not take them off.

I then lift the car on the jack until the tyre is clear of the ground, leaving enough room for the spare, inflated, round tyre to be fitted easily and quickly. Once the tyre is high enough, I then remove all but one nut completely from the tyre, and put them somewhere clean and close-by. I then gently remove the last nut, putting it with the others. Gently removing the damaged wheel, I place that under the car, so that it becomes the “toe-saver”. 
  
Replacing the tyre
Gently and calmly removing the spare from under the car, I fit it gently onto the car, and immediately refit one nut finger-tight, and then all the others, again, finger-tight, ensuring that the wheel is correctly fitted to the car. Once the spare tyre is fitted onto the car, I then remove the toe-saver tyre, and lower the jack so that the car is resting gently on the ground again. 
Lowering the jack until the tyre grips the ground, I then tighten the nuts onto the wheel. Don’t tighten each one completely, working round the tyre in a circle, but work on one nut, then go the opposite one, then to the other opposite one, almost as if you are “joining the dots” to draw a star shape. Tighten them all evenly, ensuring the wheel is correctly fitted. Once the tyre nuts are fully tightened, I then fully lower the jack


Tidying up
So, the car is fixed temporarily. You now need to pick up, clean, and pack away all the equipment you have used, including the damaged tyre. Try to get into the habit of putting it all away correctly, so that is ready to be used again next time.

Reduced speeds with the spare tyre
Most spare tyres have a label on them, stating that the maximum permitted speed on that tyre is 80Kph, or 50mph. This is because the tyre is normally narrower than the other tyres, which in turn means that there is less grip for steering, acceleration, and braking than the other tyres.

If using the sealant can, I believe that the speed is still limited, and you should only travel a short distance on that damaged tyre.

Getting the tyre fixed or replaced
Get the tyre fixed or replaced as soon as you can. The longer you delay it, the more likely you are to forget about it, until the next puncture, when you will wish that you had not delayed the repair. 
 
Damage to the tyre may need the tyre to be replaced because of the size, the type, or the position of the damage. Do not hesitate… get the problem fixed!
 
As a general rule, you only have a puncture at any one or combination of the following situations:

You are in a hurry
It is raining
It is dark
It is snowing
It is muddy
It is a client’s first driving lesson
You are on a massive hill
You have just changed a tyre a couple of miles ago
You are smartly dressed.

Can I suggest the following?
You keep a torch in the car
You know where the locking wheel-nut key is
You learn how and where to put the jack
You keep a couple of plastic or rubber gloves in the boot with the jack etc
You keep an old car mat spare in the boot, for you to kneel on, or to put the nuts on

And most importantly…
You practice!

 It's cold, dark and wet, and everyone just  wants to get "there" as quickly as possible.



I think the above statement sums up a typical winter afternoon/evening quite well. It also hints at some of the problems ahead, for drivers, riders, and walkers alike. 
 
Cold and wet weather can very easily produce condensation in vehicles and a rider's helmet visor. It produces the perfect conditions for pedestrians to start hurrying, with their hoods up, and umbrellas and eyes down;  hardly conditions to encourage good levels of awareness! According to the Highway Code, wet roads can double the stopping distance of a vehicle, due to reduced grip
between tyres and road. The wet leaves lying on the road are not going to help that grip either, if it is very cold, there may also be ice forming, or still lying around from early morning.


When people are in a hurry, they are normally prepared to take risks. Maybe they think they can hurry across the road in a gap that they would not normally even consider as being suitable. Maybe, if they are looking at the oncoming headlights, they do not notice the cyclist coming on his bike, wishing that he had bought new batteries for his lights. Maybe they didn't see the cyclist because they could not see sideways through the hood they are wearing. Maybe the driver cannot easily see the pedestrian, dressed in a long dark coat, with hood up and brolly down, because their  windscreen is still a bit steamed up, and there are hundreds of raindrops on the windscreen, obscuring the driver's  view.


Once the danger is seen, nothing is going to change for at least 2/3second, because that is how slowly the average driver reacts, and New Drivers may take twice as long to identify the scene as
hazardous. At 30mph we are travelling at 13 metres per second; so at least 8metres are going to be covered between seeing the hazard, and starting to brake. I think some "firm braking " is going to be needed... Now! Unfortunately though, we cannot brake too firmly, otherwise we risk losing grip, and control of, the car.


To sum up... Road users are in a hurry, in bad conditions. No-one has good visibility, no-one has good grip, but may still may be legally travelling at 13metres every second, and yet people are still
prepared to take risks.


How can we minimise these risks? Luckily, there are a number of things... The correct mix of screen-wash, that won't freeze in these condition, is a useful starting point, together with a pair of new windscreen wipers to clear the outside of the windscreen. De-icing all of the windows and mirrors will help us to be able to see out. De-misting the insides of all the windows properly before moving off is an absolute necessity. Looking well ahead, and keeping your eyes moving is going to help you have time to see and identify potential hazards before you get too close to them. Anticipating where the next hazard may be, will get the driver ready to react. For example, maybe there is always a deep puddle just around a corner. Or there may be no-one at the Pedestrian Crossing, but you may remember that the school pupils always rush around "that corner" to get to the Crossing point.


Keeping your brakes checked and in good condition will help you slow down the speed of the wheels efficiently. Keeping plenty of even tread on all of your tyres (including any spares) will help those tyres to maintain grip whilst slowing down. Tyre pressures are also extremely important. If tyres are incorrectly inflated, it can affect road-holding capabilities when turning, aquaplaning, endurance of the tyre, fuel consumption, as well a braking capabilities.


The type of tyre used, and it's tread pattern. Some tread patterns are designed for higher speed driving, such as  motorways. Some are designed for maximising grip in wet conditions. Standard
tyres are designed for general use, but their grip and efficiency reduces greatly at temperatures lower than 7 degrees centigrade. Winter tyres are made using a rubber mixture that does not become stiff or brittle in cold conditions, and therefore are much more suitable for cold seasons. There is a marked improvement in steering and braking control in cold conditions when changing
from standard to winter tyres. The tyres can be swopped over at the beginning and end of the cold seasons. Some garages will even store your unused tyres, ready to swop back for you as the seasons
change.


Reducing your speed can greatly reduce your stopping distances. For example, using wet road braking distances: Reducing speed from 60 to 30mph will reduce the stopping distance from 146m to just 46 metres, From 40 to 20mph reduces the stopping distance from 72m to 24metres. So, halving your speed reduces your stopping distance to a third, not by a third,  but to a third. Reducing speed from 30 to 20mph will halve the stopping distance.


To sum up... In bad conditions, road users need to be able to see the hazards, and be seen They need to be able to react promptly. They need to be able to stop promptly, in control.


The answers...?
 Don't rush 
Clear the windows and mirrors properly, and keep them clear 
See and be seen. 
Be considerate to other road users 
Is it safe? Are you sure? 
Maintain your vehicle properly, maybe timing the annual service to be ready for winter 
If in doubt slow down. 
If you are still in doubt, maybe you should stop? 

What are they for?

The aim of a roundabout is to keep traffic flowing whilst arriving and departing in different directions, within a restricted area.

Basic principles of dealing with roundabouts:
Wveryone will always drive clockwise round the roundabout.
Start preparing for the roundabout as soon as you are aware that it is getting close. The earlier you start preparing, the earlier you will be ready for it. The earlier you start looking at the traffic flow on the roundabout, the easier you will find it to merge into the flow of traffic.

Give priority to traffic approaching from your right, unless directed otherwise by signs, road markings or traffic lights

Normally, "Left & Ahead is the Left hand lane, Right and right round, use the right hand lane" If this rule does not apply, there will be signs warning you how to choose your lane, as you approach the roundabout.

If there are not multiple lanes on the approach road, try to show your intentions by moving towards the left or right edge of the one lane that is available to you.

When your junction is the next one on the left, check your mirrors, signal left, and start "unwinding" towards and into the left lane (or part of the single lane).

If there are two lanes approaching the roundabout, there will be two lanes on the roundabout itself, but there may not be two lanes in the exit you are leaving on.

Mini ones, normal ones, large ones, multiple ones:

Mini roundabouts are normally in very restricted, normally slow-speed areas, such as housing estates. They are normally just a circle of paint on the road, rather than a "structure". This means that, if needed, vehicles can drive onto the paint without damaging anything. It is important to remember that you should always aim to drive round the roundabout, not over it. Larger vehicles may not be physically able to turn the vehicle in such a small area, and this way, they are able to turn without damaging road or vehicle.

Normal Roundabouts are normally a 4-way junction, with a (typically) grass "hub" in the centre. There may be one or two lanes on each approach route. They can be found at the edges of towns, or through roads, taking traffic round towns, where there is more room available.

Large Roundabouts are normally found on the outer ring-roads of a town, on dual carriageways, at motorway junctions, or other major road junctions They will normally have four or more junctions, and at least two lanes on the approaches. The flow of traffic may be controlled by traffic lights onto and on the roundabout. More and more roundabouts are being changed to "spiral lanes" where you get into the lane you need as you approach the roundabout, and then that lane will spiral off at the exit you want, if you have chosen the correct lane to start with. The Golden Rule here is that once you are in a lane, you need to stay in that lane, even if it takes you the wrong way. If you start changing lanes on these roundabouts, you are likely to be putting yourself and others in danger.

Multiple roundabouts are just that... multiple roundabouts. They are not "double roundabouts"; they are two different roundabouts that happen to be close, or next to, each other. Each roundabout should be treated as a separate roundabout. To my knowledge, there will always be a Give Way line between the two roundabouts. You deal with the first roundabout, and then approach, and give way, at the next one.

Advance warning signs, and lane warnings.

Mini roundabouts often do not have any signs showing destinations. There should always be a blue circular sign with three white arrows pointing in a clockwise circle. It will be at the entrance to the mini-roundabout. It can be used to judge the location of the roundabout, as you may not be able to see the roundabout as you approach, maybe due to traffic or parked cars.

Normal and larger sized roundabouts will have destination signs as you approach: green ones are for distant destinations on major routes, white ones show local destinations, and minor roads.

If the lane design is NOT normal, then there should also be a white sign showing the lanes needed to get to the different exits. There should also be white information painted on the roads. If you choose and get into the wrong lane, go where that lane takes you, you can always find somewhere safe to turn round after the roundabout, and try approaching it again.

Approach speeds

Generally, you can approach the entrance to a roundabout at a running speed, and in the correct gear for that speed. Most of the traffic on a roundabout will be travelling at some sort of running speed, it may be a jog, or it may be a sprint speed. All of these speeds can normally be achieved in second gear. At this speed, you can continue onto the roundabout, mixing with the other traffic, which will be doing a similar speed. If you need to stop and wait for a break in the traffic, it is very easy to stop quickly from a running speed, in a short distance.

Look into the future for a gap that you will be able to use.

By this I mean that you should try to look ahead of yourself, so that you may be able to predict when there will be a gap in the traffic flowing on the roundabout, that you may be able merge into.

You may be able to notice that a vehicle is joining the roundabout at junction 1, with its right indicator showing, signalling that it will be turning to his right, or junction 4. That means that it will be blocking junctions 2 and 3. That, in turn, means that the traffic in junction 3 will have to give way to the vehicle coming from their right. There might well be a gap in the traffic flow that you may be able to use to your advantage.

Lane discipline.

Generally, if you are going to exit at either junction 1 or 2, you will be approaching in lane one, and staying in that lane.

If you are turning right, or right round, back the way you have come from, you will approach in the right hand lane, and stay in that lane until you pass the junction before yours. At that point you should carefully “unwind” into lane 1, to exit the roundabout in lane 1. If your exit has two lanes, you can exit straight into lane 2, but be aware that lane 2 may merge back into lane 1 within a very short distance.

How and when to signal.

The principle for signalling is to show your general exit direction as you approach it, and then signal left when your junction is the next road on your left.

If you are taking the first exit on the roundabout, then you will signal left as you approach the roundabout, and keep it on until you leave it.

If you are going right (or right round) at the roundabout, you should signal right as you approach the roundabout, keeping it on until your exit becomes the next one on your left, at which time you should signal left.

If you are taking an intermediate exit, do not signal until your exit is the next one on your left. Your lane position will indicate your general intention, until you can confirm it with a left indicator.

The "12 O'clock Rule".

Is a myth. It does not exist in the Highway Code. It is not a Rule, because it does not, and cannot, apply to all roundabouts. Many roundabouts have the second exit (the road Ahead) which is located before or after the 12 O’clock position.

At all times, be aware of pedestrians crossing near the roundabout, vehicles which may be straddling lanes, either through necessity or by mistake, motorcyclists which may be in your blind spots whilst you are turning, and for cyclists or horse-riders, who may take a position different to motor vehicles. They are generally advised to stay on the outside edge of the roundabout, nearest any pavement, even though they may be turning right at the roundabout. They should use arm signals to inform other road users of their intentions.

Above all, be aware of the movements of other road users, and how they may affect you.
Keep an eye on where you are exiting, and stay in the lane you need to be in.
Signal as soon as you can without confusing others.
Travel at a steady speed on the roundabout, so that others can make plans based on your speed and position.

Transport Research Laboratory’s report

There have been articles appearing in the media about changes to the way “Young Drivers” can learn to drive.
There has been research and questions asked about how to improve driver training.

Please remember that nothing has been decided yet, nor will anything be decided for a long time.

At present, people can start learning to drive on the public highways at the age of 17. They can take their Driving Test at 17, and once they have passed the Test, they are then able to drive on any public roads, anywhere in Britain, without any further training, or any limitations other than limitations that apply to all drivers. 
That means that a Young Driver can pass their Test, and then drive straight from the Test Centre where they live, along any motorway, at any time of day, in any weather conditions, in any traffic conditions, to any destination they wish, as long as they and the car are on the road legally.

Government Press Release. It seems that the Overhaul of Driver Training was instigated by British Motor Insurers concerned about the high insurance premiums being charged to Young Drivers, not by Bodies wanting to improve Road Safety. 
I think the priority is wrong. Surely we should be concentrating on improving the quality of British Driving because it will save lives and injuries, not because of the price of insurance? The insurance premiums should naturally reduce in time to reflect the lower risks of driving. It should not be the reason for improving Driver Safety. 

I have just been viewing the BBC website to find out what has been published by them.

They mention a minimum learning period of at least one year, including at least 100 hours of supervised driver training, and at least 20 hours of supervised driver training at night. 
It does not state that all those hours have to be with an Approved Driving Instructor.
I am a firm believer that the more hours of constructive driving experienced, the better the driver will become, regardless of age.

Once the test is passed, there will be a Probationary period, which could include a curfew, and those under 30 will be banned from carrying passengers also under 30.
I think this is unlikely to work in its present wording; how will a new father under 30 years old carry his new child to school, hospital, shopping etc?
How will the Probationary Driver be able to receive further training if their Approved Driving Instructor is also under 30?

There is talk of a lower alcohol limit for Probationary Drivers.
I think it should be at least lowered for everyone. Could it be an alcohol limit of Zero? Why not?

Statistics show that 20% of deaths on British roads involved drivers aged 17-24 years old.
That is a very high, and scary statistic, which needs to be improved drastically, and fast.

Who is driving for the other 80% of the deaths? 
Why are all drivers not being targeted to improve road safety?

According to ROSPA (Royal Society for the Prevention of Accidents):

In the mid 1980s there were about 5500 road deaths each year. In 2012 there were 1754 road deaths.
This drop in numbers is encouraging, and shows that British drivers are becoming safer. 
Are British Drivers becoming safer, or are the roads they are driving on becoming safer?

But we still need to remember that 5 people die on British roads EVERY DAY, and that does not include all the others who are injured, or those, including close and distance family members who are traumatised. That is a horrendous statistic. It has to be changed, across the whole range of ages, not just one section.

RoSPA's Causes of road deaths in the UK states:
Common causes of these unnecessary tragedies include:
Speeding
Around 400 people a year are killed in crashes in which someone exceeds the speed limit or drives too fast for the conditions.
Drink Driving
Around 280 people die a year in crashes in which someone was over the legal drink drive limit.
Seat Belt Wearing
Around 200 lives each year could be saved if everyone always wore their seat belt.
Careless Driving
More than 300 deaths a year involve someone being "careless, reckless or in a hurry", and a further 120 involve "aggressive driving".
At-work
Around one third of fatal and serious road crashes involve someone who was at work.
Inexperience
More than 400 people are killed in crashes involving young car drivers aged 17 to 24 years, every year, including over 150 young drivers, 90 passengers and more than 170 other road users.

I think what we need to do now is to improve our skills of controlling the vehicle, and our awareness of risk factors. This is nothing more that we are trying to do at present. 
Choose an Approved Driving Instructor who can help you learn to drive safely.
Learn to drive safely, with a safe attitude, and you should be able to minimise the risks in driving.

We cannot wait until there is a new Law before we bother trying to stay safe.. that could be another two years away, or more. With 1754 road deaths each year, we cannot wait that long. 

When the Government has made its decision, we can work from there. 

Once we have "sorted" the "Young Drivers", perhaps we need to urgently start on all the other Drivers as well.

It's Autumn again.

Those words that the Weathermen love to bandy about:
Shorter days, Sunshine and showers, sun low in the sky, lovely clear frosty mornings,
misty patches. To a photographer these phrases may produce all sorts of ideas for beautiful, atmospheric landscape photos. Then that same photographer has to think about driving to the correct place to take the photos.
They become a different challenges.
Shorter days. The sunrises later, and sets earlier. Many commuters will be driving in the dark both to and from work, maybe for the next 4 months. If the sun does appear during the drive, it will be coming slowly just over the horizon, shining brightly along the roads, and into mirrors.
Sunshine and showers. That means the sun could well be shining brightly, and reflecting off wet tarmac or puddles, back up off the road, into a driver's eyes. That same sun is going to produce areas of bright sunshine, and areas of deep shadows.
It's raining, then it's not, then it is again. Wipers on, wipers off, wipers on again. Are the wiper blades sliding smoothly and quietly across the screen, clearing all the liquid as it goes? If the wipers are not doing their job, get rid of them. Replace them as soon as you can with a new set. Sunglasses on, sunglasses off. Do they keep steaming up when you wear them? Maybe you need to bring them into the house with you at night, so they don't get so cold at night, so they don't steam up as soon as they get close to your warm face.
Clear frosty mornings. Make sure the windscreen (both inside and out) and mirrors are completely clear of frost, ice, or snow before you drive off. There is no point driving, if you cannot see where you are driving, and is it safe to drive there? No harsh braking, no harsh steering, no harsh acceleration. Drive smoothly.
Make sure that your lights are visible, and working. It is also a legal requirement to ensure your number plate is visible. Highway Code rules Icy and snowy weather (228 to 231).
Misty patches. They are so atmospheric, peaceful, and beautiful to a photographer, sudden and frightening to a driver. That same driver may be driving safely along a dry bright road, and go round a bend, or into a dip, or up over a slight rise, or a bridge, and drive straight into a patch of mist or fog, where the road surface will be damp, the temperature will be colder because the sun cannot burn through the mist onto the road surface, and, of course, that same driver can see considerably less than just a few moments ago. This needs an urgent but careful reduction in speed, to match the sudden change in visible stopping distance.

The general guidance and advice would be to give yourself extra time to warm the car up before travelling. Make sure you can see out of all the windows and mirrors, that the wipers are working properly, and be prepared for sudden changes in weather and driving conditions. Keep back from the vehicle in-front, giving you more time to slow down gradually. Be aware.

Further suggestions and Rules can be found in: 
My Pages on driving in bad weather
The On-line Highway Code

The news tonight reported that well over 100 vehicles were involved in a massive collision on a bridge leading off the Isle of Sheppey during this morning's commuting time.

Amazingly, thank goodness, there were no fatalities.

The news reported that the bridge has no hard shoulder running along the edge of it. There is no lane dedicated for use by the Emergency Services in the event of an emergency. There is no lane that vehicles could use in an emergency to avoid colliding with, or being hit by, other vehicles.  There is no lane that could be used in an emergency by people trying to leave the site of a collision, without having to clamber around the vehicles involved in the collision. 

There a plans by the Government, to start using existing hard shoulders as extra lanes on some motorways, to ease congestion, at very little cost. They say that there will be refuges for emergencies every half mile or so.

 I beg to suggest that we should keep our hard shoulders as hard shoulders, to be used whenever there is an emergency. As shown by today's event, emergencies can happen at any time, with almost no warning. Although today's cars are very reliable mechanically, I suggest that we cannot plan ahead for a collision, and clear the hard shoulder ready for the Emergency Services. That hard shoulder needs to be available all the time.

The news also reported that there were no gantry signs above the carriageway so that the speed limit could be lowered in the event of fog.

Surely the drivers can see the vehicles ahead of them disappearing into mist or fog, and start adjusting their speed and "safety bubble" accordingly? Surely it makes sense for people to drive with enough space in front of them, to be able to slow or stop safely? In fact, The Highway Code states in Rule 126:

"leave enough space between you and the vehicle in front so that you can pull up safely if it suddenly slows down or stops. The safe rule is never to get closer than the overall stopping distance (see Typical Stopping Distances diagram, shown below)

allow at least a two-second gap between you and the vehicle in front on roads carrying faster-moving traffic and in tunnels where visibility is reduced. The gap should be at least doubled on wet roads and increased still further on icy roads

remember, large vehicles and motorcycles need a greater distance to stop. If driving a large vehicle in a tunnel, you should allow a four-second gap between you and the vehicle in front.

If you have to stop in a tunnel, leave at least a 5-metre gap between you and the vehicle in front."

I am well aware that if you leave a gap in front of you, that it will be filled by someone else. If that happens, just ease off the gas pedal for a few seconds and build up the safety gap in front of you again. Even if you have to do that a number if times on a journey, then you will only arrive at your destination a few seconds later than you planned. That extra time would probably less less time than you having to wait at a red light at a junction, that's all.its not a lot. It's not going to get you sacked.

Surely it makes sense to drive safely, carefully, and with enough attention to be able to see what is happening around you, and to do something about it when it starts happening?

Why do people drive so fast and so close to each other, that a collision is inevitable when something goes wrong?

If in doubt, slow down. 

If still in doubt, stop. 

You cannot hit anything if you are not moving. 

Leave enough time to complete your journey safely. Do not rely on luck, and the fact that you've survived without crashing so far, that it's not going to happen to you. It has just happened to over 100 families. Luckily, today, in that particular collision, there were no deaths. There were some serious injuries, but there were no deaths, this time. Despite that, over 100 families have been directly affected by that collision today. Over 100 extended families are changing the way they think about travelling.

Please, learn from others, drive safely. You are responsible for your actions and your safety. No-one else, just you.

http://www.andrewknightdriving.org.uk/driving-in-the-fog.html

BBC News reports...

Drivers are being warned not to take the apparent generosity of other motorists for granted in a new take on the "crash for cash" insurance scam.

While the Highway Code states that headlights should only be flashed "to let other road users know that you are there", many use it as a way of inviting other road users to pull out.

In the "flash for cash" scam, a driver in an approaching car flashes their lights in this way, but then deliberately drives into the other vehicle.

Richard Westcott reports.

Andrew says... PLEASE drive to the rules of the Highway Code! If everyone drove that way, ("In an ideal world") driving would be so much safer

BBC News reports...

Careless drivers across Britain who hog lanes or tailgate can now be punished with on-the-spot police fines.
Under the new measures, officers can issue £100 fines and three points rather than taking drivers to court.

Ministers said it would make tackling problem motorists easier. The AA said a third of drivers risked facing a fine.
Jon Ironmonger reports.
Read more

Wow, how lucky we are to have had at least two weeks of hot and sunny weather!
No rain to worry about, just lovely dry weather and roads.
With the threat of rain and maybe thunderstorms arriving either today or tomorrow, many drivers may be caught out dry, "grippy" tarmac suddenly becoming very greasy and slippery in the damp conditions.
We will need to brake and steer gradually, until we know how much grip there is on the roads. 
When was the last time that you used your windscreen wipers? Are they still working properly, or have they cracked and torn in the dry weather, and now they cannot clear the windscreens so that you can see what's happening around you?
Have you still got enough windscreen washer fluid  to clean any grease off the windscreens?

How much tread have you got on each of your tyres? And what about the spare tyre? And what about the pressure in each tyre?
It might be very worthwhile just making sure your car is ready for bad weather, as well as the good weather we have been having recently.
http://www.andrewknightdriving.org.uk/driving-in-rain.html

Eco-Safe Driving

Road safety is the number 1 priority whilst on the roads. 

Eco-safe driving can only be considered when it is safe to do so.

Give yourself time to drive economically.

Use engine braking where possible.  Fuel consumption during deceleration is extremely efficient. Use this feature to cover long distances efficiently, by coming off the gas pedal early and letting the engine slow the car down, rather than driving up to a junction fast, and then braking hard at the last moment. It will also reduce the wear on the engine and braking system.

Look well ahead of yourself, to give yourself time to brake gently. Consider the time of day of your journey, it may be possible to drive at a different time of day, when the traffic levels will be lower, and therefore your drive will be more flowing and efficient.

Consider not taking the car, maybe you can share your trip with others on a bus. Maybe you could walk, or use a cycle.

Do not coast. Travelling with the clutch down, or in neutral, reduces your control of the car. If the engine is not connected to the wheels, you are unable to take advantage of efficient engine braking, you will have to rely on just the brakes. During this time your car will not have slowed down as much as planned. Therefore you will have to brake harder than you planned. This may surprise the vehicle behind you, with a number of consequences. Because, you are braking harder than planned, you are more at risk of locking the brakes and causing the car to skid.


Do not carry extra weight unnecessarily.  A boot full of rarely-used accessories increases the car's weight unnecessarily, causing the engine to have to work harder to increase speed, and the brakes to work harder to slow the car. Some people never fill the fuel tank completely, because it weighs more than a half-full tank, and therefore weighs more, needing more petrol to move it.

Roof racks and roof bars can increase fuel consumption by up to 15%, even when empty. 


Try to keep the car moving on the approach to junctions and hazards, maybe the junction or hazard will clear itself, allowing you to keep moving, which takes much less energy than stopping and starting again. It also allows traffic behind you to keep moving, resulting in cumulative savings in energy savings..


Air-conditioning and climate control uses energy. Some people have calculated that by turning on air-con, you can increase your fuel consumption by 15%.  That is the equivalent of changing your fuel consumption from, say, 50mpg, to 42mpg! If you had a roof rack on the car as well, your fuel consumption would change to 35mpg!

You could simply open the window instead of switching on the air-con. This will increase noise levels and reduce the car's aerodynamic properties, but reports show that that is more energy efficient than using aircon, up to 40mph. Above that speed the increased turbulence increases fuel consumption than using Air-con.


Changing gear at lower engine revs. Why travel at speed, at an engine speed of 2500 revs, when you might be easily able to get exactly the same effect at only 2000 revs? Using these figures, you might be able to save 20% of fuel consumption, engine wear, engine noise, whilst achieving the same speed on the road.

There will be many times or situations when these techniques will not be suitable to use, but this may only be for a few hundred meters, after which you may be able to return to using ecosafe methods.


Block gear changes. This involves accelerating in a particular gear to a higher number of revs than you normally would. You might then be able to miss out a gear change to achieve a certain speed, by using one  gear change instead of two. For example you might be able to stay in 3rd gear a little longer than normal, rev a little higher, but then change straight into 5th gear, missing out 4th gear completely. If this is possible, the total number of revs used to travel along a certain length of road may be lower, with the resulting saving in fuel. You will only have had the clutch down once, which reduces clutch wear, you will only have removed you hand from the steering wheel once, rather than twice, which will mean that you have only one period when you only have half the normal steering control, instead of taking your hand off the wheel twice.


Efficient journey planning. Longer journey at smoother speeds. Lower traffic levels. Can you combine a number of separate trips into one longer one?


These techniques are only part of a whole attitude to driving and the environment, as well as economics.


www.andrewknightdriving.org.uk

... got my winter tyres a week ago today, just in time for the latest falls of snow.

As soon as I started driving with them on risky roads, it was obvious just how much more grip I had available compared to normal tyres.

The composition of the rubber makes the tyre much more flexible than normal tyres in cold weather, so it is able to transfer grip from the wheels to the road. The extra grooves in the tyres allow the tyres to grab hold of the gravel, snow, or ice much more than normal, and they are designed to grip both forwards and backwards, so that they have both driving and reversing grip.

The main drawbacks that I have found in these conditions, is other vehicles with just normal tyres, being able to see the edges of the roads, rather than finding them by "feel", and driving in snow that is so deep that the car "bellies out" on top of the snow, rather than driving through it.

I spent a couple of hours with a client today, practicing emergency stops on winter country roads, and was "pleasantly surprised" at the grip in less-than-perfect road surfaces, stopping quickly and accurately at a number of different speeds, giving results slightly less than normal tyres in summer conditions.

All in all I am very pleased with the driving , steering, and stopping properties of these tyres in winter conditions. 

All I am looking forwards to now is the prompt return to summer conditions!


Here is a comparison of the tread between Winter and "Normal" tyres, showing the larger number of grooves in the winter tyre, designed to give the extra flexibilty and grip, compared to the much smoother normal tyre.